Two New Things

/ mardysears / 1 Comment

 DSC00795

DSC00797

This week we are experiencing two new things in India. The first is the Ganesha Chaturthi holiday. Last Thursday was the day before the holiday when you celebrate the elephant god Ganesha’s mother – Gauri. Schools were closed for the day and then also for the Ganesha Chaturthi, the big holiday, on Friday. I have been in India around this time before, but I had no idea what I was in for this time. There is a temple down the street that has strung up lights and loud speakers. Yup, that’s right, LOUD SPEAKERS. Starting Friday morning they began playing music and chanting from 7:30 in the morning until 10 or so at night. I was told this would go on for the whole weekend and it did, and then some. At night, everyone goes to Sankey Tank, which is the lake down the road, with the clay Ganesha they have purchased and submerge it in the water. Some are just quiet families, having a puja or blessing and submerging their god. Others are bands of raucous young men, dancing, jumping, chanting, beating drums, blowing horns and lighting fire crackers in the street on the way to the tank with their idol. Each temple displays a large Ganesha for the weekend and then have a procession down to the tank at night that blocks the roads and creates a deafening sound. I thought it was all over last night until I heard the drums again. It goes on for an hour or two and then the fire crackers go off in great strings, producing clouds of smoke. It is thrilling and beautiful, scary and obnoxious, and I’m still not sure if it’s over yet!

Ganesha Chaturthi

Ganesha Chaturthi

The other new thing this week is Ashwin’s first day of school in India. He went off reluctantly but quietly yesterday. We have been talking about this a lot and I think he knew it had to happen. When he came home he was a different boy. They had given him books and a backpack, and he was thrilled to be learning new things. He couldn’t wait to do his homework and he was being loud and talkative all afternoon. When he woke up this morning he said he was excited, but as the time approached to take him to school, he said he didn’t want to go. Leaving him this morning was a huge production and I finally had to put his hand into the teachers to lead him away as he was screaming and crying. It was a gut wrenching experience and I hope it goes better tomorrow. His teacher is very nice and his class is small, only about 8 kids. I expect he’ll settle in soon, but I haven’t seen him this upset in a long time, and the last thing I wanted to do was leave him. Every day in India seems to bring something new with it, we just have to go for the ride. 

DSC00814

First day of Kindergarten – India

Ta Prohm

/ mardysears / Leave a comment

DSC_0276

DSC_0288

DSC_0292

One of the nicest experiences I had in Cambodia was at Ta Prohm, the jungle temple, partially unrestored and overgrown with massive fig and silk cotton trees. The trees grow up out of the stone and wrap themselves around the huge blocks so tightly they move them. At this temple, trees are not cut unless they are in danger of falling down. One tree growing straight up over the entrance has a scar in the middle of the trunk that looks like an eye, watching you enter. While walking through the temple there are many small spaces where people have set up altars with offerings. One in particular had a shiny gold tree and all kinds of containers to hold incense, one of which was a Pringles can. It was being attended by a small old woman with a hunched back who tied a braided string around each of our wrists and chanted a prayer. She struck me more than any of the others, because she seemed so happy and she never asked for money. I felt like we made a connection. Upon our return I was looking through my pictures and found that she wasn’t really very old at all. As a matter of fact, I rarely saw anyone old in Cambodia. This is just one more reminder of the Khmer Rouge – it is inescapable when traveling in Siem Reap. There are still signs warning against walking in the jungle due to land mines. Many who have been injured by land mines are now musicians playing traditional music at the Wats or the Night Market. Their injuries are such that they are no longer able to do other jobs. Our guide, Rathanak told us that land mines were only cleared after the death of Pol Pot in 1999 and they still hear them going off occasionally. It baffles me to think of such violence happening in such a gentle place.

DSC_0293

The Unexpected

/ mardysears / 1 Comment

imageSo we are back in India, ready to begin work and school – or are we? Ashwin is still recovering from a nasty virus and not ready for school yet and I still haven’t found out what I will be doing at Azim Premji University. Venkatesh went to work today, the science department is having a meeting, so I am on my own for a while. What’s on the agenda? Let me see……laundry, shopping for a few more basics for the cloud house, attending to Ashwin? Hmmm, not so exciting, but even shopping locally and taking an auto can be challenging and interesting.

I am thinking about our trip to Cambodia quite a bit. It is all hard to process while you are traveling with children, and feeling hot and tired. As I listen to the horns honking on the street I am reminded that no one honks in Siem Reap. On our drive from the airport to the hotel, our van never topped 30 miles per hour. There isn’t much traffic but everyone drives slowly and if anyone gets in the way – they wait. I saw no sign of aggravation on the face of any tuk-tuk driver. Everyone we met in Cambodia was polite and gracious. Even the hawkers were polite when I said ‘no thank you’.

DSC_0322

Cambodian Tuk Tuk

It’s funny when you travel – and the sites that loom large in your mind turn out to be a disappointment, and the unexpected become the truly great experiences. For decades I have wanted to see the giant Buddha faces at Angkor Wat. Actually they are on the Bayon temple at Angkor Thom, and I may have known this when I studied Asian Art as an undergrad but I had forgotten. Well I guess everyone wants to see this iconic site because it was a complete zoo. Yes it is incredibly beautiful and the faces are sublime, but who can enjoy it? Bus loads of tourists are crawling all over it, posing for pictures in front of the ‘most important’ icon according to the tour guides. There is no way to be left on your own to explore and discover. Sometimes as a tourist it is hard to avoid the tourist experience and see something in a genuine way. The sad part is, I feel like I missed out on seeing it when it was quiet. Leah went to see it on her own eight years ago and it was so quiet she had to look for someone to take a picture of her. I’m afraid that experience is no longer available even at sunrise.

DSC_0308

Bayon

DSC_0307

 

On the other hand, we were passing a temple on the side of the road one day, (they are everywhere!) and our driver asked if we should stop. There were no buses, or line, or ticket checks, we just entered the temple and climbed to the top. The temple of Pre Rup hasn’t been conserved much. Wooden brackets were holding corners in place and there were no wooden walkways or stairs. We climbed the original steps to the top and they were large and steep! With no railings and crumbling corners I held Ashwin’s hand tightly while Venkatesh sat with his sketchbook. The Wat was surrounded by lion sculptures, each facing out like a sentry but missing its face. One of the small temples on top had a shrine with incense burning. A woman handed us each a stick of incense to add to the altar and I thought of my parents health as I added mine. We knew nothing about this temple before experiencing it, but that didn’t lessen the experience. It may have even added to it. All we had were our senses to absorb this incredible pile of  stone.

DSC00771

DSC00775

DSC00778

DSC00787

Pre Rup

DSC00785

 

Phra Phrom

/ mardysears / 1 Comment

image

image

We are nursing a sick child with a fever and haven’t been able to go see anything in Bangkok yet, but our own street corner is alive with extreme dichotomy. We are staying at the Erawan Grand Hyatt – it is probably the grandest hotel I have ever stayed in. There are at least six huge malls within spitting distance and we are   nestled in between every luxury designer brand you can think of; Gucci, Louis Vitton, Stella McCartney, Lanvin, Alexander McQueen, Botega Veneto, you name it, it’s here. But on the corner next to our hotel is the Thai version of the god Brahma, installed when the original hotel was being built on this sight. They broke ground on an inauspicious day and the construction was going very badly. The shrine did the trick and all went smoothly afterwards. At all times of the day, there are stalls set up along the road with flowers, icons, and offerings for sale to those who come and pray. Thai dancers are paid by those who want their prayers to be heard. The space is a fog of incense and lit candles. Birds in cages are waiting to be released for luck.

image
image

A woman sits with three stray cats, she feeds them leftover fish on the sidewalk. In the evening, during rush hour the streets come alive even more. Vendors set up wares for sale and street food carts open up. This city is truly a place where East meets West.

I think Ashwin’s fever has finally broken in the night (to our great relief). Maybe we will go past our corner today, but even if this is all we see of Bangkok, it is truly an amazing sight.

What Wat?

/ mardysears / Leave a comment

image

image

image

I have a lot to say about Cambodia, but not enough time right now. I can say it is one of my favorite places on earth and I would love to go back. I only wish it weren’t so hot!

Pictured above is is our Bed and Breakfast in Chiang Mai Thailand, Baan Orapin. It is a beautiful spot near  the river and the old city.  The pictures on the bottom are small shrines at the front gate of the hotel. Every house and business has this kind of shrine in front.

We have seen many Buddhist temples, or Wats, in the past couple days in the old city. I am feeling overloaded with gold Buddhas, standing, sitting, and reclining. We are going to see the Wat Phra That Doi Suthep on a mountain top this afternoon. I have heard if you go around 5 p.m. the monks start chanting. These Wats are all functional and we see many monks in orange and mustard robes – the color is quite beautiful. The first one we went to, Wat Phra Singh, had one side cordoned off and there were approximately 30 monks sitting at low tables eating lunch.

10 Dop – The house with the tilted balcony

/ mardysears / 1 Comment

image

This is how we feel at our Dop House. We must be in the most beautiful place on earth! This  Cambodian house originated in Pouk, twenty kilometers northeast of Siem Reap. It was purchased, dismantled and rebuilt for Sala Lodges Hotel.

image

image

After the tired and hungry boy melt down and a good long nap, we went to the village center on a tuk-tuk. Different from an Indian auto rickshaw, these are essentially tricked out carts with a seat and a roof, pulled by a motorcycle. We saw one with a flat screen tv attached to the back, playing kick boxing. Another was a Rock and Roll tuk-tuk which will play your choice of music. You can even plug in your iPod to play from your own music library, and sit in the back seat under disco lights. We went through rows and rows of booths at the Night Market all selling the same stuff; graphic T-shirts, light and flowy pants with elephant prints, bags and baubles and wood carvings. After dinner we bought Ashwin a tender coconut water, in which you drink out of a big green coconut through a straw, and rode a tuk-tuk back to the Sala Lodges Hotel for a night swim. This is where the most beautiful part comes in. The pool is made of stone and the water is as warm as a bath from the days bright sun. The frogs were croaking and peeping in the small rice patty gardens, other than the sounds of nature it was completely quiet and the moon was nearly full. We had the pool to ourselves and Ashwin was almost as happy as he was at the airport when we descended from the plane directly onto the Tarmac. That was surely the highlight of his day, but Sala is the highlight of ours. Every little thing is carefully chosen, down to the most minute detail, handmade Cambodian pottery, woven grass roofs and pool umbrellas, mosquito netting over the bed with beads on the ends of the the tie ups. I can only begin to explain. A feast for all of the senses. Relax…….enjoy. We aren’t going anywhere today.

image

Beka? Beku!

/ mardysears / 2 Comments

image

Oh yes, this is where we live, 16th Cross and 8th Main. I would tell you how to say it in Kannada, but that’s too hard for me. I’ve only mastered ‘beka?’ – you want? and ‘beku’ – I want. Pretty rudimentary stuff. This was yesterday’s word. Today I learned how to say ‘my name is’ and I’ve already forgotten it. Oh well, slow going on the Kannada front for this 49 year old brain.

I finally got the answer to the mystery utensil question, it’s essentially a cookie cutter. When rolled, it cuts circles of dough for chapatis. Jet-lag is finally over and we’re off to Cambodia tonight!

Nesting in India

/ mardysears / 1 Comment

.image

No I’m not pregnant, just trying to create a nice home for myself and my family. I went to the best Indian handicraft exhibition yesterday and Auntie Chitru bought this beautiful lamp for our bedroom. It’s hand painted on leather and stretched on a metal frame. I think my sister in law, Vinuta, and I will be going back on Monday. Most of the money you spend here goes straight to the artisan and the prices are half of what you find in stores. Time for some serious shopping!

image

Morning two in India, 5 a.m. I woke up early to the faint sounds of namaz. It’s not surprising that I missed them yesterday – I had to go out onto the terrace to hear them better. A cuckoo called from far away and then several nearby. Their wake up communication seems to travel across the city of Bangalore. Next came a honk and soon after the traffic sounds began. I still don’t know what the mystery utensil is but a few suggestions are meat tenderizer and melon slicer. I’ll ask Gopal (my father in law, otherwise known as Tata) today. My big adventures yesterday include mailing a document at the post office, going to Nilgiri’s market for some groceries (and getting stuck there due to the monsoon burst) and running to Cafe Coffee Day with Ashwin to get a hazelnut latte and watch the trucks go by. He says he is making a book on trucks, both Indian and American, and we go out on walks to take pictures. I keep telling him copying is the highest from of flattery, but he still complains that his little niece is copying him. She watches him constantly and he isn’t fond of her yet. His most common question is ‘what’s that smell Mummy?’ and he hates the mosquitoes. I can’t seem to keep him from getting bitten but I’ll try harder today. At least our Cloud House is mosquito free. The only thing I asked for when it was being built, windows with screens! The Cloud House is a beautiful place to stay. I’ll take pictures once we are settled in.

Mystery Utensil

/ mardysears / 1 Comment