On Our Way to Wayanad

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAWe took a train to Mysore and spent the night with Venkatesh’s, sister’s, in-laws for the night. While there we went to see the Mysore Maharaja’s Palace. The King of Mysore (Wodyar dynasty) lived in this palace and even continued to rule during British  control of India until 1950. His family continues to live in a portion of it, and the rest is controlled by the State of Karnataka.

While there it began raining, so we decided to go inside the palace, but everyone else had the same idea and it became quite crowded. When we realized we had to remove our shoes and check our bags to go in, we lost interest and left. We  waited on the sidewalk for Venkatesh to call an Uber to go home, when a black and white cow started heading straight for us. It stopped right behind V to eat some garbage under a tree and I thought we were fine, but then it decided to move on. I began telling Venkatesh to move but I wasn’t quick enough. The cow budged him to the side and people near us started saying ‘EXCUSE ME, EXCUSE ME’ to get us to move, but we couldn’t move fast enough. I had Ashwin and my niece with me, so I grabbed their arms to yank them aside as the cow passed within an inch of us. Sila fell over and she thought the whole thing was very funny. She couldn’t stop giggling and talking about it. ‘What that cow do Mardy Auntie?’

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Mysore Palace

The next day we hired a taxi to take us to Tranquil Resort, on a coffee plantation in Wayanad, Kerala. We drove through Bandipur Tiger Preserve on the way and were very lucky to see an elephant family, as well as spotted deer, peacock and rhesus monkeys.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Mama elephant in Bandipur Tiger Preserve

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

We stayed in a beautiful treehouse and were woken up on the first morning by a curious monkey who was trying to peek into our room. He jumped on a deck chair and nearly knocked it over, then when he couldn’t see well enough through the sheer curtains, he climbed up to look through a small window above our slider. We just checked each other out for a bit until he ran over our roof and disappeared.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

After breakfast we took a long walk through the estate. During the monsoon season we were told to watch out for leeches, so we wore socks and sneakers. When Ashwin heard his Auntie Vinuta talking about the leeches, he absolutely refused to go hiking, until Uncle Ram offered to carry him on his back. We walked through intermittent rain and sun, looking for wildlife and saw many birds, including a beautiful Greater Racket Tailed Drongo. Of course, right about that time I felt a slight itch on my calf and when I lifted my pant leg, there was a leech attached. Luckily, Vinuta was prepared with a bag of salt and she got the leech to release from my leg.

We took the long trail through puddles and muck and when we finally reached the end, we realized the trail wasn’t a loop and we had to turn around and go all the way back. The trail was truly beautiful, and I don’t want to sound ungrateful for this experience, but I also don’t want to gloss over the reality and paint a perfectly enviable picture. When I found out that we had to retrace our steps and risk picking up another leech, not to mention the fact that Ashwin was now walking and I was worried for him, I was not feeling happy. So when Ashwin said ‘ When are we going to leave this fucking forest’ – I cracked up laughing because he was speaking my exact thoughts. Anyway, he did end up finding a leech on his leg too, and he handled it in a very calm manner. I was very proud of him. We also saw a peacock on the way back, that we had only heard on the first leg of the journey. We even saw him take off in flight, with a surprising flash of orange on his back. It was truly beautiful.

image.jpeg

Happy 50th Birthday Venkatesh – this trip was his gift.

 

Dasara

Mysore Palace

Mysore Palace

The spectacle of Dasara in Mysore was as far as we could get from our experience in Gudalur, but this is where we went next. On Friday evening we joined the throng at the palace to see the display of lights. Traffic was stopped so we got out of the car and walked along two sides of the block before meeting up with our car again. The excitement was palpable, and Ashwin skipped and danced down the sidewalk until it became too crowded and we had to hold on to keep him from getting lost. Much of Mysore was lit up, like Christmas or New Year’s Eve at home, with colored lights draped over every important building in the city. Roads had lights strung across them, and colored lights formed pictures of gods in motion. The palace was completely outlined in white lights. It was spectacular!

DSCN0768

The beginning of the procession

On the following day, Kamala and Anil Kumar made arrangements for us to watch the elephant procession, the Jamboo Savari. We had a comfortable place to sit in a storefront until the parade started, then we were taken to the front row and given seats on a platform with a perfect view. Included in the parade were 45 floats (or tableaux) with 71 costumed folk art troupes in between, drumming and dancing. The performers were hypnotic (Ashwin didn’t make a peep for two hours) and the tableaux were the height of kitsch. My personal favorite was the one with the giant silk worm on it (the man is trying to adjust the mannequin’s falling sari). There were many paper mache copies of temples, a giant ear, political figures, village houses, handicrafts, and tons of gods and animals. Two floats  included a tiger attacking a man and another announced all of the repercussions one will suffer from going to the bathroom outside (including being attacked by a tiger and other monstrosities). In other words, this was by far the BEST parade I have ever seen in my life.

DSCN0782

Hanuman the monkey god came to visit

DSCN0801

DSCN0799

DSCN0787

Over 5 Lakh (or 500,000) attended the Jamboo Savari, and when it was over a huge crowd of mostly men ran down the street after the procession. It was total chaos! We just waited until the majority of the crowd passed before leaving, but it was still a sea of people when we got to the side street. People were purposefully stepping in the elephant poop with their bare feet (good luck?) some climbed up onto the train bridge, the train halted and was blaring it’s horn. The front tire of a motor scooter following behind me ran into my heel, someone pinched my butt so surreptitiously and cleverly I wasn’t sure it had happened. Ha, ha! you have to admire that a bit, had I realized in time I would have slugged him with my water jug.  In short, I loved it and had a fantastic time!

DSCN0815

The end of Jamboo Savari